Apo reef – Travel Dive Connect

Apo (pronounced with a long ‘a’ and a long ‘o’) is a word of respect. It is bequeathed only onto the best in historical Philippines, and even today within communities that retain some of its local traditions. It is an ancient word; as old as mountains and as sacred as oceans.

Apo Reef is the largest contiguous coral reef system in the Philippines and the second largest in the world, right next to the Great Barrier Reef in Australia. It is in Occidental Mindoro, within the jurisdiction of Sablayan. And, it is the unfortunate subject of a lack in direction and an uncompromised focus on conservation. Issues beset this Marine Natural Park, which have perhaps held back its stature as a diving destination comparable to Tubbataha Reef, Palawan.

And maybe this is a sign of disrespect, undeserved by a marine gem such as Apo Reef. There is so much potential in the reef, as well as the rest of Occidental Mindoro.

The Reef, On Paper
It was only in 1996 when Apo Reef was recognized as a Protected Area and National Park. This was through Former President Fidel Ramos’ Presidential Proclamation No. 868, which also created the Apo Reef Natural Park (ARNP) and its protected buffer zone. The protected area spanned more than 27 thousand hectares.

Apo Menor, Apo Reef — Apo Menor, a small uninhabited rocky island within the reef

It was only a Marine Park in 1980 through Former President Ferdinand Marcos’ Presidential Proclamation No. 1801, which also assigned the reef’s development and management to the Philippine Tourism Authority (PTA). This was followed up in 1983 with its declaration as a marine reserve and tourist zone through Sablayan’s Sangguniang Bayan Resolution No. 1108.

In 1989, it was one of the subjects of a Haribon Foundation study, funded by the Worldwide Fund for Nature-US, which mapped potential integrated protected area sites in the Philippines. This helped enact the 1992 Republic Act 7586 establishing the National Integrated Protected Areas System (NIPAS), and its rules and regulations.

The latest recognition for Apo Reef was its inclusion in the Enhanced National Integrated Protected Areas System (ENIPAS) Act or Senate Bill No 2712, which already passed its third reading. When signed into law, ENIPAS would fortify the regulations that protect the reef.

On paper, all looks good for Apo Reef. It should be on top of its class, leading must-see Philippine dive destinations, along with Tubbataha Reef, and placing Occidental Mindoro on the tourist trail.

Apo Reef and Occidental Mindoro, 2015
I saw Apo Reef and a couple of the province’s tourist sites towards the end of the reef’s 2015 dive season. The habagat (southwest monsoon) was setting in. It would soon be risky to do the 3-hour boat ride to the reef from mainland Occidental Mindoro.

The province’s landscape was stunning. The main road wove through mountains, rice fields and the ocean. Except for town centers, such as San Jose, it was a splattering of green, blue and beautiful.

Mt. Halcon, popular among Manila’s mountaineers, seemed eclipsed by Mt. Iglit-Baco. The mountain was home to the tamaraws, an endemic buffalo species. It was said that only 300 tamaraws were left, although no formal count had been done.

The rains kept me away from Mt. Iglit-Baco, which was just in the backyard of my base in Calintaan, the Apo Reef Club (ARC). Fortunately, ARC’s Michael Roos took the time to take his guests to the Tamaraw Conservation Center, a DENR-operated 100plus-hectare rescue center two hours away from the resort. The road to the center was undeveloped in a few locations; and there were no direction signs to guide non-locals.

There, we witnessed the turnover of rescued turtles from Palawan. Within the center’s hectares of land, more than a hundred turtles were placed in a fenced pond no bigger than the circumference of a car.

Only one tamaraw was housed in the center. Kali was born in captivity, and was 16 years old. He had been domesticated by his caretaker, and responded to his calls.

The visit to the tamaraw center left me feeling underwhelmed. It was such a big and beautiful place. It was also immensely underutilized. Certainly, there was more land available for the turtles. And, surely, there was room for development. I could imagine the center as a true rescue sanctuary and must-see Occidental Mindoro destination.

We set out for a night in Apo Reef when the weather finally permitted. Our six dives revealed why the reef was a marine gem, and why there was a need for further protection and better management.

Baby shark, swimming away from a photo op.

Sharks, turtles and rays abound. This was my first time to encounter mobula rays. Sharks were present during four dives. Turtles appeared so often that I lost count.

The dives also showed Apo Reef’s history of destructive fishing practices. Dive sites near the edge of the reef showed scars from dynamite and cyanide fishing. Dive site Bahura, in particular, had dead areas and coral growth split open by dynamite.

And even as it enjoyed its marine protected area status, there were clues to continued illegal practices. During my night in the middle of the reef, I saw bursts of light – perhaps explosives – just a few meters away. This was confirmed by one of the park’s personnel when we visited Apo Island the next day. He said that these were done outside their jurisdiction, even when they didn’t seem that far.

Apo Island was likewise a mess, a beautiful mess. There were abandoned structures, rumored to have been commissioned by former President Gloria Arroyo, an avid diver. There was also the foundation for a helipad on a beach frequently visited by nesting turtles. This was a national park and protected area, and not a Boracay wannabe, right?

Awaking the Apo
There are a few developments that give me hope. Blue Water, a team of pro-conservation eco-tourism professionals, is said to be working with Sablayan Tourism. Likewise, the Philippine Commission on Sports SCUBA Diving, along with the Tubbataha Management Office PASu Angelique Songco, have stepped in to help with management and maintenance issues of the national park.

Maybe, this is the time for the Apo to awaken… and it’s about time.

The province has so much potential. And it is home to Apo Reef, by far the most amazing dive experience I’ve had.

References:
World Heritage Convention, United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization http://whc.unesco.org/en/tentativelists/5033/

Apo Reef Natural Park, official website http://aporeefnp.com/

This trip went so far from the plan. It’s not just about staying in Occidental Mindoro longer and postponing the Coron leg as consequence. It’s also about a solo trip that wasn’t.

As soon as I stepped into Michael’s 4-wheel drive early Friday morning, it became a social adventure. For the first time in a long time, I shared my journey with kindred spirits.

I barely knew Michael and B but they felt familiar. Maybe it’s our age. Maybe it’s the timing – the coming together at this point in our lives. B is starting over; Michael is fighting to protect the reef; and me, I am struggling to raise Travel Dive Connect from its infantile stage. Poetic, ain’t it? One thing sure, it was a lot of fun!

The Last Schlummi
There was a long wait before we could venture into Apo Reef. From the Apo Reef Club, a dive resort in Calintaan, Occidental Mindoro managed by Michael, the reef was three hours away, out into the open sea. Badly timed trips can be… well, bad. My original group was supposed to dive Apo the day after I made it to Calintaan. That didn’t push through because of an LPA (low pressure area) and they left, one couple at a time, without diving the reef.

San Miguel Beer — To B, the awesome lady who can outdrink me 😉

This was how I ended up being dive buddies with B, a Danish traveler introduced to me as “someone who can outdrink me.” I accepted the challenge, and – as expected – waved the white boozy flag on our first night at Apo Reef Club’s bar.

That was how it was during the wait. I brought work with me and filled my days with it. By 6 at night, B would be beside me at the bar for pre- and post-dinner drinks. Michael would join us most nights for his infamous “schlummi” – his term for one last drink, which didn’t always stick to just one.

Our night out in San Jose, Occidental Mindoro was particularly memorable. We met R, a German medical practitioner who’d been in the province for more than 20 years. And, Michael let his hair down, which I only saw glimpses of at the resort. It was the schlummi’s fault – I loved it!

The Escape

We didn’t really cut off until the boat left the resort’s shore for Apo Reef… ah, the trappings of today’s so-called connection. You could mark the exact moment. Michael and B let go of their devices. I just used mine to take pictures.

Before this, I was worried about making my deadlines. B would slip into thoughts about home and family issues every now and then. And, Michael was busy with the resort. An hour into our trip, we lost connection. No internet, no mobile, no problem!

Apo Reef III was our dive boat and home for the night. We “parked” in one of the dive sites within Apo Reef by securing the boat onto the site’s buoy. The reef protected us from the waves.

B, sunbathing as the boat sails for Apo Reef.

It was the most “macho” katig boat I’ve been on, by far. It had a dive area, with tanks and a compressor, a kitchen and dining area, sleeping quarters, fresh water shower, a charging nook, and a platform for barbecuing. There was a mesh/net over the katig’s frame, which was tough enough to carry our weight. We took turns sunbathing here while the sea rocked us to sleep. After dives, for meals and post-dinner drinks, we hung out at the dining area.

Exhausted, waiting for sunset. — B, exhausted, waiting for sunset.

I had my alone time on the other end of the barbecue platform. There, while downing a couple more pale pilsens under a blanket of stars, I saw the explosive display of lights off illegal fishing boats just a few kilometers away. (True story. 😉 )

The Passion
Diving brought us here. And you could see it in our eyes; at our age and with at least a decade of diving behind us, we still loved every moment of it.

I remember how Michael shrieked at the sight of mobula rays, around 50 feet below us. (Yes, the visibility was that good.) We were already at the surface; while B lingered at 15 feet. I immediately grabbed my regulator, turned on the camera, and peeked back into the water. That was my first encounter with mobulas.

For me, it was great that we all still got so excited to see what we saw. We were just so happy to be there.

Apo Reef was teeming with my marine favorites: sharks and turtles. We did six dives over two days, and saw sharks and turtles in four. 20 sharks and 50 turtles, I’d say. That’s an overestimation, of course, but it felt that way. I loved it!

The Road Back

The trip back was personal. We had different destinations, different signposts of home.

For Michael, it was back to reality as soon as we hit Calintaan’s Bulaong Beach. He busied himself again with resort work. That night, it was about securing the dive boat and making sure his kids reached the resort safe for the weekend.

B once said: “I don’t envy him.” We were talking about Michael and the resort. However ideal it looked – a place on a beautiful beach and access to amazing diving any time you want – staying there and dealing with everything he’s had to meant that he really loved Apo Reef and Occidental Mindoro. You won’t endure almost a decade without love. I raise my glass of schlummi to you, Michael!

Meet The Roos: warm kalamansi juice; honey or sugar, to taste; 2 shots of Tanduay rum.

For B and I, the escape was extended. When we got to the beach, our favorite cocktail, The Roos, waited for us. The karaoke machine was turned on, playing Michael’s favorite song. R was there for some singing and drinking. A feast was prepared by Ivan, Apo Reef Club’s awesome cook. Everyone was in the mood for karaoke night.

We had time to freshen up in our bungalows. I was impressed to find mine with fresh sheets and towels, and the airconditioning already turned on. Kudos to the staff for their friendliness and attention to details!

B had a long way to go, almost 24 hours of travel before she reached home. I, on the other hand, decided to postpone the Coron leg so I could focus on what I found in Occidental Mindoro. When I planned the trip, I didn’t expect to find so much pressing issues. I thought it’d just be about saving sharks and seeing how climate change affected the reef. I was so wrong.

Michael took a quick break from the resort to see us on our way. The next night, we were back on the road to catch a boat to Batangas port and drive to Metro Manila. Michael was at the wheel, fighting off sleep with the most annoying “music” I’ve had to listen to. On the boat, we all slept in the car. I ventured out for a bit but, during night trips, the car’s seats were the coziest.

We made a couple of stops along the way. The first was at Sta. Cruz’s old bus stop, where one store operated 24/7. Here, we had instant coffee and some bread. Michael led in the local custom of dipping your bread in coffee. Very Filipino, I thought.

Next stop was at a McDonald’s along the South Luzon Expressway. On a dare, Michael approached the counter and ordered Chicken Joy. The guys in the next line muffled their laughter. I gave him an “I’m not worthy” bow.

Then, I was home. Back to work, back to my routine – my reality. I looked forward to it. B made it home safe, a few days after.

The Journey

It is important that we do what we did/do, time and again. To travel and dive. To connect with strangers and other cultures. To seek out what we love whenever we can. You have to if you want to survive this crazy world. It is not really an escape. We would always come back.

For me, it is an emptying of self, where it’s just you and love. Sometimes, you do it alone. Other times, like my journey to Apo Reef, you get to share the experience with friends.

Tag: Apo reef

Apo Reef: Awaking Occidental Mindoro’s Marine Gem

The Journey to Apo Reef: Tale of the Traveling Schlummi

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