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The Rocky Ecotourism Boat

Calintaan, Occidental Mindoro Philippines
At the start of the trip
At the start of the trip

That’s how it felt like, this boat that I was on. Caught in an afternoon storm, we rocked precariously in open sea. The people inside the passenger shed were shrieking as waves slapped against us. I was on the shed’s roof. The people here were quiet. I think we were more caught up with watching the waves, anxious that a disastrous one would hit.

The Backstory
We were a group of about 50; most were tourism representatives of Occidental Mindoro. A handful, which included myself, belonged to Blue Water Consultancy, a private firm that assisted government and non-government organizations in designing, planning and implementing sustainable tourism for their communities. Well, I didn’t really belong. It was my first time to join the group; I was also there to learn.

Blue Water Consultancy Philippines
Chen Mencias, day one of the BETC seminar under Blue Water Consultancy

The firm conducted a two-day basic environment and tourism seminar. Day 1 ran through concepts in conservation, sustainable tourism, and tourism trends. Day 2 was dedicated to the basics of planning for a healthy community-based ecotourism program. Both days were peppered with anecdotes from the leads of Blue Water, Chen and Louie Mencias, a “legendary” couple (I would later learn) in diving and marine conservation. It was obvious that they’d been around, and had seen so much of the country.

Louie Mencias of Blue Water Consultancy
Louie Mencias of Blue Water Consultancy

Listening to the Mencias, as well as Cye Reyes, the other Bluewater member in the seminar and one of the partners at the Pitak Project, I realized the enormity of the work that needs to be done if we wanted even a tinge of conservation practiced in communities that vie for tourism profits. I was among tourism department employees; and seeing that many of the concepts were new even to them was indicative of a lack.

Blue Water was there to address some of this lack. I suppose, foremost here was to make people aware of how tourism was like the sea on that stormy afternoon – big and angry, and you’re sure the waves would come. If you don’t plan for it and impose guidelines and standards, it could ruin what your community holds most dear.

Where Boracay Was a Cautionary Tale
At least, there was initiative from both the private and public sectors. The seminar was sponsored by the provincial government of Occidental Mindoro. And the attendees, even when the turnout was fewer than expected, listened attentively. As stories of failed and successful tourist spots were told, I took comfort in the fact that most, if not all, of them didn’t want another Boracay in their province.

Boracay, a tourism behemoth, had compromised its environments and its residents for the sake of profit, most of which don’t even go to the community.

Calintaan, Occidental Mindoro Philippines
Calintaan, Occidental Mindoro

During this trip, we jumped from San Jose to Calintaan. For the island-hopping trip, the reason for the boat ride, we explored the remote beaches of San Jose. In all these places, there was hardly anyone on the beach. There was no loud music; no drunk partying. Even the manicured resort ground of Grace Island was able to retain its simple provincial charms. Certainly, at this point, I could not imagine a Boracay in the peaceful spaces of Occidental Mindoro. I hoped that I won’t have to.

Blue Water Consultancy and Blue Water
It was significant to me that every Blue Water member I was with that week was a diver. I imagined their stories as similar to mine. I had been a mountaineer and casual traveler before and after getting into diving. But it was through years of going deep that I had felt most connected with nature. Diving, to me, was a privilege, an intimate getting to know of another world, a bigger world than what we humans moved through.

The Mencias couple was well-known for their marine conservation efforts and guts. The story I remembered the most was how they tried to retrieve giant clams they’d planted in the waters near a popular Anilao resort. The clams were subjected to uncare and the couple sought to have these moved to a better home. They were successful but it came with police intervention and bad blood. They started Blue Water not long after this incident.

Cye Reyes, on the other hand, was a dive master who chose to be land-based for the Pitak Project, which she worked on with her partner and friends. The Pitak Project espoused permaculture farming and natural building. They’d been invited to talk about their work and conduct training for several local government and non-government organizations.

Me, I was just happy to be on a boat with them; and to be able to share their exploits with everyone else.

This ecotourism boat was – is – a rocky one, however. Many of the delegates don’t know how to swim. Many don’t know where to start; or, if they’d have support to begin with. But, at least, there was the drive to transcend the commercial formula for local tourism success.

We survived that stormy afternoon. Now, it’s just a matter of following through.

BETC Participants and Trainors, Occidental Mindoro Philippines
BETC Participants and Trainors, Occidental Mindoro Philippines
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The Underwater Pyramids of Calatagan, Batangas

Underwater Pyramids Philippines
Calatagan Batangas Philippines
Reef Ranger Jessie Delos Reyes approaches one of the pyramids.

By commercial definition, Calatagan in Batangas is not a dive destination; and its chain of underwater pyramids is not a “dive site.” There are no dive centers nearby. No accessible source of air tanks and gears for rent. No experienced dive guides and boatmen who know where creatures lounge, eat and sleep at specific times of the day.

But, if you’re a diver or a brave snorkeler, you must see the underwater pyramids at least once in your life. Not for the sea creatures and fauna that inhabit its waters. Growth/regrowth of marine life around an artificial reef takes a long time and it’s just been a little more than 5 years for  the pyramids.

Go to the pyramids to see the output of millions of pesos in private funding, and years of dive volunteerism. Go to see the renewed commitment to marine conservation by a community that has felt the effects of their illegal fishing practices.

Go so you’ll see a majestic testament to what can be accomplished when government and non-government organizations cooperate with private individuals to save a dying ocean.

The Underwater Pyramids of the Philippines

Underwater Pyramids of the Philippines building block
A pyramid building block, made of rocks, dead corals and cement, and weighed 80 kilos.

The Underwater Pyramids of Calatagan is a chain of pyramid-shaped artificial reefs that snake a small area around 200 feet from the shore, at about 60 ft. depth. Each pyramid rises up to 18 feet, and is made of rock/dead coral blocks that weigh around 80 kilos each.

It took years to put the pyramids together. CAP (Conserve and Protect) Oceans, a now-defunct NGO, was at the center of it. It led a community initiative to establish an artificial reef within Calatagan’s abused waters. Years before, dynamite fishing was rampant and eventually took toll. Fish harvest declined; coral reefs were destroyed. An artificial reef was the centerpiece of the fight against illegal fishing. This was supported by barangay leaders and most members of the community.

Dive volunteers came mostly during the weekends to help out. In the years it took to complete the pyramids, their number reached more than 1,500. They were housed for free at the base camp, the annex to the home of the pyramid’s reclusive benefactor,  the recently departed Vicente Madrigal Warns.

It was Warns who thought of designing the reefs after the Egyptian architectural wonder. They initially used cement blocks the size of refrigerators, which were eventually buried by sand and had zero growth even after several months. Warns thought that patterning the reef after the pyramids will not only channel their timelessness but also withstand the restive nature of the sea.

To Reef or Not to Reef

Underwater Pyramids Philippines
Pyramid blocks with more than 5 years of growth

The establishment of artificial reefs has been practiced since the 1600s (Japan) and is generally an acceptable way of allowing the ocean to renew itself. Artificial reefs function mainly as fish shelter. They also attract smaller organisms that are food for fish, thereby increasing fish count within the location.

Of course, it doesn’t come without criticisms and some disadvantages. The success of an artificial reef is dependent on its material, location and water movement. And, despite good intentions, in certain cases they might do more harm than good.

The Osborne Reef in Fort Lauderdale, Florida is a good example of an artificial reef gone bad. In the 1970s, the reef project was expanded using 2 million used tires held together using nylon or steel clasps. The steel clasps eventually gave in to time and ferocious storms. Tires went loose and polluted the waters of the Florida Panhandle and North Carolina beaches. Massive cleanups were necessarily undertaken. Tire reef projects in Indonesia and Malaysia suffered the same fate.

Majesty Under the Sea
Fortunately, the Underwater Pyramids of Calatagan is a success, so far. It has survived countless storms, the ocean’s movement and the passing of its benefactor.

This video was take in June 2014 and showed impressive growth since I dove the same site 5 years ago.

 

However, there are real threats to the pyramids surviving a few years more. Several blocks of the highest pyramid (video above) were destroyed by a few local fishermen for fish that have taken shelter within them. There is also a revival of illegal fishing in some parts. All while CAP Oceans — because of Warn’s passing —  has lost its teeth. There are no available means of running after perpetrators, no operating facility to house and equip volunteers, and no funds to empower Bantay Dagat efforts.

Marine conservation — even with artificial reefs already established — is a continuing effort, after all.

At this point, the Underwater Pyramids of Calatagan needs the renewed support of the diving community. Calatagan no longer offers the cushy perks of a Warn’s supported project — no free lodging nor equipment. But it can give you a dive experience that’s unique and truly awe-inspiring.

Maybe, through this kind of diver support, the community can see an earning alternative, something to rekindle their interest in being the site of the Philippines’ majestic Underwater Pyramids.

***

Want to dive the pyramids? Contact Calatagan Reef Ranger Jessie Delos Reyes: mangingisda_1976 (at) yahoo (dot) com (dot) ph.

Sources:
An overview of Artificial Reefs, Advantages and Disadvantages of Artificial Reefs Design, Material and Concepts of Realization around the Globe by Maricela Yip

Should we create artificial reefs? by Neville Copperthwaite

Osborne Reef, Wikipedia

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What’s Up, What’s Next, and Weathering the Weather

Manila Bay
Passing time in Manila

July’s really for catching up. I went on three successive trips and, with the money-earning projects I also need to do, I am delinquent with TDC posts. Sorry. A girl’s gotta do what a girl’s gotta do 😉

I have Calatagan underwater pyramids videos and a blog post, which should be up soon. This is a followup dive to what I did with a few friends about 5 years ago for a Yapak magazine feature.

For this trip, I went with my good friend and dive instructor, Wilson. And I am very thankful he found the time to do that dive. Otherwise, I wouldn’t have done the trip. There are no dive centers in Calatagan so we had to bring our own tanks, plus the usual gear. (And me, without a car and with zero driving skills.) I felt off about dealing with red tape, initially. Wilson encouraged me to go ahead with it. He thought it was an interesting dive for TDC.

Then, I’ll talk about my Occidental Mindoro trip with Bluewater Consultancy, which somehow changed my mind about dealing with government people. Yes, sakto sya….

I may be reaching here but it feels like there’s a flow to all this, to what I’m doing for Travel Dive Connect. It’s nice to just be able to go along with it and see where it goes.

Lubang Island Tourism Director
Lubang’s Tourism Director, Ms. Gina Julaton

I met Lubang Island’s tourism director on that trip so I’m heading there next. Barring bad weather, I will be on Lubang Island the second week of August.

What’s so interesting about Lubang Island?

  • It is one of Bluewater’s model provinces, where they’ve been able to help implement a true-blue ecotourism program that benefits everyone.
  • They don’t like resorts and big-time hotels. They encourage you to find a homestay provider, who will feed you and provide shelter for only Php 600-Php800 a day.
  • Zero crime rate. People actually leave their doors open.
  • Zero gambling. No lotto outlets on the island. And a few school officials were once scolded and fined for playing a card game with bets in public.
  • They’re organic and they recycle.
  • Their public schoolkids (I forget which level) get netbooks, which they can take home to use with homework. After graduating, they are supposed to pass on the netbooks to the lower levels. The municipal government just found a sponsor for a new batch of netbooks.
  • They’re on the edge of the Philippines. Their fishermen actually encounter Chinese naval guards. But, instead of getting shooed away with water cannons, the Chinese throw instant ramen at the fishermen. It’s not poisoned raw. 🙂
  • The island was once the home of Japanese straggler Hiroo Onoda.
  • Pristine snorkeling spots. No dive centers, unfortunately.

Of course, all this depends on the weather. There’s a 3-hour ocean crossing to get to Lubang. I want to be able to keep doing this so I won’t risk it.

I suppose it’s going to be that way, at least during typhoon season. The weather’s harsh this early into it. We were without power for about 5 days. I am thankful to friends and friendly establishments (o2 Space and Figaro) that I actually got some work done last week. So, I will check with the weather and hope for the best.

 

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The Pitak Project: Dreams Under Your Feet

La Union Permaculture Farm
Pitak Project La Union
photo/logo by The Pitak Project

The choice of Pitak Project as one of my destinations is more personal than logical. They don’t exactly fit in with what I focus on. The place is nowhere near water nor fish. And, statistically, the subject isn’t as popular with my Facebook followers as, say, any post set in a marine location.

But they fit. In the grand scheme of things, the Pitak Project represents an ideal when it comes to our relationship with nature; and, on a personal level, how I want to go about TDC.

You see, what draws me the most to Pitak is not its mud houses. It’s not the fresh clean veggies I get to eat when I visit. It’s not the no-signal getaway it promises. I love all of these about the farm but what’s up there is their story. It’s a story about believing.

The Guts to Believe
I first knew the people behind the Pitak Project as activists in Baguio — true-blue ones who work for their cause and live simply.

This was why I was a bit confused when I heard about the farm: how could they afford it? And I was right, they couldn’t. It took their life savings to buy the land and all that’s necessary to get started. It took research and innovation to plan the elaborate natural development of this land. It took moxie to transport their lives from Baguio to La Union so they can make a dream come true.

La Union Permaculture Farm

This resonated with me. While my goals are not as grand, I saw in them what I wanted for myself: the guts to believe in my dreams, and to put my money and time where my mouth is.

Small Steps
I’d visited thrice since the Pitak Project began; twice last year before planting season and this recent trip. Things changed within that period.

Pita Project Farm La UnionThere are now a lot of animals at the farm. Last year, they just had a dog. Now, they have ducks, chickens, pigs and a goat… and more dogs. The new dogs (retriever half-breeds) have assigned themselves the task of accompanying residents to the no-water bathroom. They check for reptiles and bugs. They bark at reptiles and eat the bugs. I appreciate this, especially at night.

Last year, I helped put up a wall for the first mud cabin. Now, all four walls are complete. These have been covered in decorative clay. There’s even a cob bench out front.La Union Mud Houses

Everything else is pretty much the same. Granted that I missed planting season and the framework of the main house is now up, it’s still same… which is nice.

I asked Cye during this recent visit about how they plan out tasks. She said that they just did what felt urgent. They take days off too. They let life happen. The small steps that they make each day, those count for something.

And so far, these yapaks have led to TV and newspaper features, cooperation from the municipal government, and high esteem from the rest of the community. From ‘the odd farm out’ in Pideg, now they have most everyone wanting to adopt their practices.

Trial, Error, Success
Perhaps the secret of the Pitak Project is its fondness for learning new things and experimentation.

Cob blocks I don’t remember being at the farm and there wasn’t some comparison going on. Between plot A and plot B, naturally fertilized differently. Between this and that mud batches, formulated for durability differently. Between this and that cob blocks. Between this and that fertilizer mix.

What comes out of this is a practice in natural building and permaculture farming that is not reliant solely on books, manuals and how-to’s. These women have actually begun to put together organic farming and natural building guidelines that work in our typhoon-battered country.

System of Rice Intensification
What impressed me the most was their recent experimentation where they adopted the System of Rice Intensification (SRI); of course, side by side a few plots using conventional rice planting for comparison.

System of Rice Intensification
An SRI rice plot near harvest time
photo by The Pitak Project

SRI is a low-water higher-yield alternative method to conventional rice farming. It makes use of less seedlings and costs cheaper.  SRI rice plants grow taller, with longer roots that dig deep into the earth.  This makes it resilient against storms. It can yield twice as much rice, as it did for The Pitak Project last harvest time.

Natural Building
And, of course, there are the mud houses. Natural building was the first thing that brought me to the farm. I wanted to try it out and get all muddy. It is also what brought media attention to the Pitak Project. Jay Taruc’s Motorcycle Diaries has driven by; so with a number of print media outlets.

Pitak Project mud houseA Pitak Project mud house is made of mud, sand, straw and water.  For good measure, add cow or carabao dung whenever available.  You can mix all this by hand but it’s better when you do it with your feet. You get your whole body weight in there for a better mix.

The house’s framework would be up. This is made from locally sourced bamboo, wood and rocks. Depending on how the house is designed, you can either fill in the frame’s gaps with mud, making sure to pack them tight and smooth out the visible sides. Or, you can make cob blocks and build walls with them.

Water is the worst enemy of mud houses and this was considered in the Pitak Project’s plans. Mud house location is carefully selected. Water redistribution is planned out for the typhoon season. The mud house roof is made from nipa, and covers beyond the framework to shield the walls from moist.

So far, there’s just one house up. The main house is next in line. Visitors are welcome to learn and help in natural building. Of course, they need to come at the right time. Work on the houses is seasonal.

Dreams Under Your Feet
Had I the heavens’ embroidered cloths,
Enwrought with golden and silver light,
The blue and the dim and the dark cloths
Of night and light and the half light,
I would spread the cloths under your feet:
But I, being poor, have only my dreams;
I have spread my dreams under your feet;
Tread softly because you tread on my dreams.
— W.B. Yeats (1865–1939)

Rannie of The Pitak Project
Rannie of The Pitak Project

Rannie is a new addition to the family. He is the youngest son of a Baguio local. Over summer, his mom sent him to vacation with his Pitak Project aunts. He liked it so much that he extended into this school year’s first term. (It is convenient that there is a public school right across the farm.)

At the Pitak Project, his immediate duty is to care for the animals — his ducks and chickens. He is able to provide for his adoptive family with regular rations of eggs. He does odd jobs too, tasks that a young man can do.

Aunt Carol and Rannie
Aunt Carol and Rannie

When I was around, he helped water plants and harvest string beans. He chopped food for the vermiculture worms with his Aunt Carol. He hunkered down with Aunt Cye to work on a bamboo cabinet for his clothes and toys. And he seemed always eager to learn new things.

Their next farm project brings a big smile on his face. His aunts have allotted a piece of land for him, where they will build his mud house. His mom has been invited too. She is set to retire soon and has an option to stay at the Pitak Project.

And for all this, he is hopeful. From a boy who only knew urban Baguio, Rannie now latches his dreams onto the land. He wants to bring his mother to the farm so she could be with him. He wants to study agriculture. He wants to be a big help at the farm, and maybe even own his own.

IMG_0309One of the lessons at the Pitak Project — for me and maybe for Rannie too — is that the land can sustain you. You work; you harvest. You take care of the land; you reap its abundance.

You will survive too — no matter how little land or capital you have. SRI can increase your yield. Natural building is an alternative housing option that you can do with materials sourced from your land and your community.

And, against many odds, the Pitak Project has proven that you can live a good life on the farm. You will be fed well. You will have friends and a community. You will be making a difference in the lives of people who reach out to you — all because you had the guts to try to make your dream come true.

 

 

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For the Love of the Road

San Jose, Occidental Mindoro
San Jose, Occidental Mindoro

The past four weeks have been busy. I went to 3 destinations (Pideg, La Union, Calatagan, Batangas, and Occidental Mindoro) and was on the road for a cumulative of 50 hours. By on the road, I mean “on my butt and being transported to a destination.” That’s a lot of time just sitting around.

I took  note of the hours because just a while ago, coming back from the gym, I was on a bus cruising along Coastal Road. I sat in front and was watching the road — a scene I am absolutely in love with. I remembered how, when I was younger, I’d watch this clip from Goodwill Hunting over and over again just to see the road unfold.

That sounds like a lot of romantic drivel, I’m sure. But there is something to it for me, even now. I can miss the plane and end up on a 14-hour road and sea trip alone, and I’d be happy. I won’t regret the 14 hours I could have spent going about my typical Manila day.

Must Be Love
A good gauge of love is when you allow yourself to go through a roller coaster of emotions and still want to take that ride again, every day if possible. This is the road for me.

The gut-wrenching, vomit-inducing stretch of roller coaster this month was the well-intentioned but badly managed island hopping trip on my last full day in Occidental Mindoro. I was with the Bluewater team, the ecotourism trainees of Occidental Mindoro, and the provincial tourism council. Plus, the governor’s wife was there. So, it was a big deal. You’d expect some controls in place.

And you know, it started out fine. The day was bright and sunny, at least from the Aroma Beach side of San Jose. The water, blue and silken, I couldn’t resist taking a clip:

We just had three destinations that day: the island home of Fr. Fernando Suarez, Inasakan Beach and finally Grace Island Resort for lunch. The troop was supposed to be back at Aroma Beach by 2PM — ideally.

Grace Island Resort, San Jose, Occidental Mindoro
Grace Island Resort, San Jose, Occidental Mindoro

Of course, you guessed it, plans went awry. 30 minutes in and we hit a rainy patch. The people toploading the boat’s car — this included me — got soaked. Decisions were made and we went to Grace Island first. It sounded like a good plan.

Grace Island is a nice place, if you’re into resorts that look good and have all the requisite toys. The Bluewater team and I snorkeled and kayaked. The rest seemed less interested in getting in the water; some weren’t even dressed to get wet (bad decision for an islandhopping trip). They biked around the island and bought souvenirs. Lunch was a feast of steamed crabs and curried seafood — yummy!

Calintaan, Occidental Mindoro
Calintaan, Occidental Mindoro

We left at around 1:30PM, while the sun was still high. Note how, if the plan was followed, we should be ending the trip by then. And this was for a good reason: the seas get rough before dusk. For three straight days, afternoons were dark and wet. We only saw a tinge of sunset on the third day.

(I took a clip of that too 🙂 )

It was no different this islandhopping day.

The original plan allotted just 30 minutes each for the other two islands, which I now know was impossible. There were too many of us. Unless there’s a drill sergeant around, you cannot possibly herd people in and out in such a short time frame. And,  it was low tide so we either had to walk through waist-high water or were transferred in batches via a smaller boat to get to the islands. This alone took 30 minutes one-way for each island.

So what happened next happened. We only headed back at around 5PM, and promptly got caught in the afternoon’s rough waters. Even I — with my shark tattoo and all, and my imaginary gills — got scared.

I’d rank this as my scariest boat ride ever. What fell on second place? That stormy dive day in Anilao, when we were the only divers around because Luzon was stricken by a Level 2 typhoon. We had to dive because one of us, a dive instructor-mom, was mourning the death of her son a week before. Our boat was being bitch-slapped by the ocean, 5 feet high each time. We needed to do a negative descent. Air Force divers (our companions that time) had to assist so we could get back onto the boat. The mom’s mom actually pooped in her pants on the way back.

This boat trip back was scarier because there were a lot more people involved, most of whom do not know how to swim. How scared was I? I was so scared that I actually put on a life jacket. I don’t normally do that because I’m quite confident in water. But put me in the ocean with panicked people? I was afraid I’d be useless unless I secure myself first.

But hey… good times. We got back safe after a horrendous hour and a half.  Soaked but safe.

Basic Ecotourism Training Certified!
Basic Environment and Tourism Course Certified!

And I’d definitely go see San Jose, Occidental Mindoro again, perhaps alone or in a smaller group. Bluewater Consultancy brought me to this trip so I can observe and learn about what they do —  I’ll write about this more soon. I even got a certificate for it.