Roots, Traditions and Remembering: On Meeting Apo Whang Od and Experiencing Buscalan

The trip to Buscalan, Kalinga Apayao meant two things for me. It was a return to the mountains – my rambling roots, having started out as a mountaineer before I took to the ocean. It was also my chance to get tattooed by Apo Whang Od, the last mambabatok (traditional tattoo artist). And while the […]