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A Big Splash and A Big Smile to Welcome 2015

Salgdoong Beach, Siquijor, Philippines
Salagdoong Beach in Siquijor, where you take the leap.

Happy New Year šŸ™‚ Starting it with some musings about my last trip….

I am shifting in my seat right now as I write this. My butt still hurts from jumping into the sea off a 20-foot cliff. According to the forums, this will be my situation for at least half of next year. A cliff diving newbie error that very few regret; so far, I don’t.

My 10-day trip ā€“ Siquijor via Dumaguete, Punta Ballo in Sipalay, Danjugan Island, Bacolod City and Cebu Cityā€“ was partly to celebrate my 40th birthday and partly to make up for months without TDC action. Emphasis on being 40 to explain my achy arse. You know how people get when they reach an age marker.

The whole trip was a challenge, as it was. With five stops, I was dependent on a bulilyaso-proof plan and transport companies sticking to their schedules. But you know, been there, done that. I’ve had trips like this before. I however have never jumped off a cliff.

Of course, I did not seek to make the jump a trip highlight. I had a lot to accomplish during my 10 days; it was just a side trip.

Cezar, my land tour guide in Siquijor, has lots of stories for the curious traveler.
Cezar, my land tour guide in Siquijor, has lots of stories for the curious traveler.

But, I don’t know, it was one of those things that you just have to do. When Cezar, a local guide and tricycle driver, told me about it, I knew I wouldn’t leave Siquijor without seeing if I can make the leap. Jumping into water was a primal fear for me. I figure, doing this was like jumping into my 40s with a big splash. I know, I know… keso!

Let me tell you though, when I looked down from the edge, I felt all blood leave my gut. I was literally gutless. Thank goodness for the American couple, school teachers on vacation, who talked me into it. The guy was encouraging all through my internal struggle. The woman was my cliff diving buddy, who struggled with me and jumped ahead.

When I saw her do it despite how we felt and she came sputtering out of the water with a big smile on her face, I just gotta do the same.

On the Road, Negros Occidental
On the Road, Negros Occidental

And that butt ache of a jump was somehow poetic. Aching at my first stop, I still went forward with a big smile on my face. So far, this was the best trip of my life.

Reality
What I loved most about this trip was that it didn’t feel like an escape. I brought along with me much of my Manila-self: my work, some pet peeves and the occasional grumpiness that came with age.

There were little frustrations, anyway. I had deadlines within the trip but I was able to log in enough time to keep my clients happy; Wi-Fi was surprisingly reliable in all the stops. I had the worst blisters on my feet. The fast boat between Siquijor and Dumaguete was a health hazard. (They seriously needed to sound-proof the engine room. With my ear plugs and all, I was still precariously dangling my torso away from the boat just to lessen the noise!) And Siquijor to Sipalay involved a boat ride and three bus switches, which amounted to around 8 hours on my painful butt, the day after my big splash.

But that’s not really much. It was like a typical week in bustling Manila but with amazing scenery.

It was during these episodes when I realized that I can actually make this my life. I would love it if I can live this for more than 10 days a month. A vacation would be a weekend or two with family and friends. Now, I just have to figure out how I can bring Body Attack to the provinces… hmmm.

Opposites
The trip was also a study of opposites. The 4-star resort feel of Punta Ballo and Eazy Diving Resort vis-a-vis Siquijor and Villa Marmarine’s cozy homey welcome. The pristine waters of Danjugan Island against the putrid shores of Barangay Bulata, the island’s jump-off point, just a 10-minute banca ride away. Commercial tourism operations compared to eco tourism and marine sanctuaries.

Danjugan Island entry beach, near Moray Lagoon
Danjugan Island entry beach, near Moray Lagoon

I came back from the trip with so much to write about. I am actually still trying to wrap my head around all that I saw and experienced.

A stand-out was the hospitality and generosity of Daman Harada and his Villa Marmarine team in Siquijor. They advertised ā€œJapanese hospitality, Filipino service;ā€ they weren’t kidding. I have never had reception so authentic and giving.

Because of Typhoon Hagupit, I had to move my reservations with them by a week. To accommodate my request, they upgraded me to a bigger cabin, equipped with hot/cold shower, cable TV, a mini bar, a really nice hardwood work desk, free Wi-Fi and a patio that looked out into the ocean ā€“ at the same discounted rate. My three nights here costed the same as one night in Sipalay.

I was the only diver but they had 2 dive masters guiding me, along with 3 boatmen, on a boat big enough for 10 divers ā€“ at my discounted rate. Eazy Diving in Sipalay had a dive master for three divers, a typical ratio in the industry.

Daman, patiently teaching us Gateball. I was a lousy player :P
Daman, patiently teaching us Gateball. I was a lousy player šŸ˜›

I wanted the sea urchin pasta and sashimi for dinner. They wouldn’t let me have these unless they got fresh supplies from the market. They actually went to the market to check before OK-ing my dinner request. I had free laundry service. And, Daman conducted an introductory game of Gateball for me and 9 other volunteer guests.

I’d be first to understand the need for tourist establishments to make some money off their guests. This felt like the opposite. It was like they were in business to provide service and facilitate a cultural exchange, of sorts. I am still moved by my stay at Villa Marmarine; and will definitely be back.

Magic
And then there was the magic of Danjugan Island. This was one of those places I wished was nearer my home so I can get to know it more. Here, I found magic to be real.

Danjugan Island, Negros Occidental
Danjugan Island, Negros Occidental

As a mountaineer and beach bum, I’d had a handful of ethereal experiences in locations I visit. If this was a function of the third eye, then you can say that mine was slightly open in an involuntary squint. I’d felt elemental presence and activity; I just hadn’t seen them. So, my logical self ignored, adding these experiences to myĀ  baul of bonfire stories.

This time though, I couldn’t do the same. The experience was too real. It felt woven into my whole amazing Danjugan stay.

What happened? For the sake of not being deemed too delusional, let’s just say that I had a couple of unseen 3AM visitors on my one night in Danjugan. (Details? PM me.) It drove me out of my cabana, where I stayed alone, very early in the morning. I wasn’t afraid. They did not give off bad vibes. I just didn’t understand at that time. My defensive logical self would not let me but I was sure about what I felt.

a mangrove-dwelling moray eel of Moray Lagoon, Danjugan Island
A mangrove-dwelling moray eel of Moray Lagoon, Danjugan Island

Being out so early was a good thing. I sat in the open area near Moray Lagoon ā€“ much like a lady sekyu ā€“ and waited for dawn. It was a cold and windy morning but I did not mind. As the sun crept in at around 5:30, I couldn’t resist walking toward the center of the action, where I saw giant bats fly into trees near me, birds sang and played uphill on trees toward my left, moral eels splashed for meals, and the sun rose east. It was a slow waking up for Danjugan Island. Magical.

Now
Today, I am planning my TDC year, how I’ll get funds for it and where I’ll go. Tubbataha is an ideal but that’s like X3 of what I spent on this trip; and to think this took me 3 months to save up for.Ā  I am thinking of trying to book a Verde Island dive again. This was supposed to be last year’s first dive trip had it not been for bad weather.Ā  I also want to soak in cool Baguio weather for a few days, and perhaps follow up on 182 trees and the city’s seeming decline.

These are all plans, of course. What’s sure is that I’ll be adding a guide component in TDC, and I’ll be giving up Yapak. Having Yapak is nice if there were other people who could help update it. Wala eh — well, except for the amazing Ms. Jl of Visual Spate, who did the logo and the new look I haven’t gone live with. TDC makes me happy so I’m giving it my TLC this 2015 šŸ˜€

 

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Ready… Giddy… Go!

C360_2014-12-11-05-17-22-951
After Ruby and before an LPA becomes a typhoon (hopefully not) that will threaten Visayas and Mindanao, I will be on a plane for Siquijor, via Dumaguete. This is the first stop of this month’s dive and foodie trip. I am so excited! It’s been a while.

First stop is Siquijor for some dives and to talk with my host, Daman Harada. He is an ex school teacher from Japan who fell in love with the island. He reached out to the public schools here and found their infrastructure, particularly the lack of proper restrooms and water, deplorable. He put up an NGO called the Siquijor Angels to fund irrigation and construction for public schools in the province.

Next is Punta Ballo in Sipalay City. Again, this is for some dives, and also to check out the artificial reef project of Easy Diving/Christian Reinwald, my host for this leg.

And then I’ll be at Danjugan Island, a conservation pioneer and MPA under the Philippine Reef and Rainforest Project . Here, I hope to swim with some black tips and visit a shallow sheltered octopus *fingers crossed … apart from talking to the island manager, of course.

Then, I will try some cansi and original Bacolod inasal before heading to Cebu City for lunch with the people behind the struggling Cebu Mariculture Demonstration Center.

Long trip. And I am a stranger to most of the stops. Wish me luck šŸ™‚

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Personal Blog: Stop/Start

IMG_0557It took a while to get the last post out. It’s shorter than usual but that’s got my blood and sweat in it. I take writing personally. It’s the one thing of me that I want intact and uncompromised.

Not saying I’m some godsend here… but I do try my best to come out with something “above readable.” (Yes, I can be snooty that way, sorry šŸ™‚ ) Anyone can claim to write these days. Me, post-college with an Economics degree from the best university in the country, I simmered in low pay just so I can work as a writer. I can’t think of downgrading now. (Sorry, again, feelingera ang peg!)

I’ve actually been discouraged lately. A friend called all this — this thematic (naks!) body of work that I am finally working on — as irrelevant. And IĀ  understand where he’s coming from. I am aware that I am not making news here. I’m just… well, writing. It’s one of the harshest things I’ve been told. I still can’t shake it off.

That. The rain. And here I am.

There are plans, old and new. I am still in touch with my friend from Lubang Island. That’s first in line. Then, I want to check out the Cebu Mariculture Demonstration Center in Medellin. They found me here. Sidetrip: Aloguinsan, Cebu.

The good thing about this stop/start is that I’ve got funds to get all this done without worrying as much.

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What’s Up, What’s Next, and Weathering the Weather

Manila Bay
Passing time in Manila

July’s really for catching up. I went on three successive trips and, with the money-earning projects I also need to do, I am delinquent with TDC posts. Sorry. A girl’s gotta do what a girl’s gotta do šŸ˜‰

I have Calatagan underwater pyramids videos and a blog post, which should be up soon. This is a followup dive to what I did with a few friends about 5 years ago for aĀ Yapak magazineĀ feature.

For this trip, I went with my good friend and dive instructor, Wilson. And I am very thankful he found the time to do that dive. Otherwise, I wouldn’t have done the trip. There are no dive centers in Calatagan so we had to bring our own tanks, plus the usual gear. (And me, without a car and with zero driving skills.) I felt off about dealing with red tape, initially. Wilson encouraged me to go ahead with it. He thought it was an interesting dive for TDC.

Then, I’ll talk about my Occidental Mindoro trip with Bluewater Consultancy, which somehow changed my mind about dealing with government people. Yes, sakto sya….

I may be reaching here but it feels like there’s a flow to all this, to what I’m doing for Travel Dive Connect. It’s nice to just be able to go along with it and see where it goes.

Lubang Island Tourism Director
Lubang’s Tourism Director, Ms. Gina Julaton

I met Lubang Island’s tourism director on that trip so I’m heading there next. Barring bad weather, I will be on Lubang Island the second week of August.

What’s so interestingĀ about Lubang Island?

  • It is one of Bluewater’s model provinces, where they’ve been able to help implement a true-blue ecotourism program that benefits everyone.
  • They don’t like resorts and big-time hotels. They encourage you to find a homestay provider, who will feed you and provide shelter for only Php 600-Php800 a day.
  • Zero crime rate. People actually leave their doors open.
  • Zero gambling. No lotto outlets on the island. And a few school officials were once scolded and fined for playing a card game with bets in public.
  • They’re organic and they recycle.
  • Their public schoolkids (I forget which level) get netbooks, which they can take home toĀ use with homework. After graduating, they are supposed to pass on the netbooks to the lower levels. The municipal government just found a sponsor for a new batch of netbooks.
  • They’re on the edge of the Philippines. Their fishermen actually encounter Chinese naval guards. But, instead of getting shooed away with water cannons, the Chinese throw instant ramen atĀ the fishermen. It’s not poisoned raw. šŸ™‚
  • The island was once the home of Japanese straggler Hiroo Onoda.
  • Pristine snorkeling spots. No dive centers, unfortunately.

Of course, all this depends on the weather. There’s a 3-hour ocean crossing to get to Lubang. I want to be able to keep doing this so I won’t risk it.

I suppose it’s going to be that way, at least during typhoon season. The weather’s harsh this early into it. We were without power for about 5 days. I am thankful to friends and friendly establishments (o2 Space and Figaro) that IĀ actually got some work done last week. So, I will check with the weather and hope for the best.

 

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For the Love of the Road

San Jose, Occidental Mindoro
San Jose, Occidental Mindoro

The past four weeks have been busy. I went to 3 destinations (Pideg, La Union, Calatagan, Batangas, and Occidental Mindoro) and was on the road for a cumulative of 50 hours. By on the road, I mean “on my butt and being transported to a destination.” That’s a lot of time just sitting around.

I took Ā note of the hours because just a while ago, coming back from the gym, I was on a bus cruising along Coastal Road. I sat in front and was watching the road — a scene I am absolutely in love with. I remembered how, when I was younger, I’d watch this clip from Goodwill Hunting over and over again just to see the road unfold.

That sounds like a lot of romantic drivel, I’m sure. But there is something to it for me, even now. I can miss the plane and end up on a 14-hour road and sea trip alone, and I’d be happy. I won’t regret the 14 hours I could have spent going about my typical Manila day.

Must Be Love
A good gauge of love is when you allow yourself to go through a roller coaster of emotions and still want to take that ride again, every day if possible. This is the road for me.

The gut-wrenching, vomit-inducing stretch of roller coaster this month was the well-intentioned but badly managed island hopping trip on my last full day in Occidental Mindoro. I was with the Bluewater team, the ecotourism trainees of Occidental Mindoro, and the provincial tourism council. Plus, the governor’s wife was there. So, it was a big deal. You’d expect some controls in place.

And you know, it started out fine. The day was bright and sunny, at least from the Aroma Beach side of San Jose. The water, blue and silken, I couldn’t resist taking a clip:

We just had three destinations that day: the island home of Fr. Fernando Suarez, Inasakan Beach and finally Grace Island Resort for lunch. The troop was supposed toĀ be back at Aroma Beach by 2PM —Ā ideally.

Grace Island Resort, San Jose, Occidental Mindoro
Grace Island Resort, San Jose, Occidental Mindoro

Of course, you guessed it, plans went awry. 30 minutes in and we hit a rainy patch. The people toploading the boat’s car — this included me — got soaked. Decisions were made and we went to Grace Island first. It sounded like a good plan.

Grace Island is a nice place, if you’re into resorts that look good and have all the requisite toys. The Bluewater team and I snorkeled and kayaked. The rest seemed less interested in getting in the water; some weren’t even dressed to get wet (bad decision forĀ an islandhopping trip). They biked around the island and bought souvenirs. Lunch was a feast of steamed crabs and curried seafood — yummy!

Calintaan, Occidental Mindoro
Calintaan, Occidental Mindoro

We left at around 1:30PM, while the sun was still high. Note how, if the plan was followed, we should be ending the trip by then. And this was for a good reason: the seas get rough before dusk. For three straight days, afternoons were dark and wet. We only saw a tinge of sunset on the third day.

(I took a clip of that too šŸ™‚ )

It was no different this islandhopping day.

The original plan allotted just 30 minutes each for the other two islands, which I now know was impossible. There were too many of us. Unless there’s a drill sergeant around, you cannot possibly herd people in and out in such a short time frame. And, Ā it was low tide so we either had to walk through waist-high water or were transferred in batches via a smaller boat to get to the islands. This alone took 30 minutes one-way for each island.

So what happened next happened. We only headed back at around 5PM, and promptly got caught in the afternoon’s rough waters. Even IĀ — with my shark tattoo and all, and my imaginary gills — got scared.

I’d rank this as my scariest boat ride ever. What fell on second place? That stormy dive day in Anilao, when we were the only divers around because Luzon was stricken by a Level 2 typhoon. We had to dive because one of us, a dive instructor-mom, was mourning the death of her son a week before. Our boat was being bitch-slapped by the ocean, 5 feet high each time. We needed to do a negative descent. Air Force divers (our companions that time) had to assist so we could get back onto the boat. The mom’s mom actually pooped in her pants on the way back.

This boat trip back was scarier because there were a lot more people involved, most of whom do not know how to swim. How scared was I? I was so scared that I actually put on a life jacket. I don’t normally do that because I’m quite confident in water. But put me in the ocean with panicked people? I was afraid I’d be useless unless I secure myself first.

But hey… good times. We got back safe after a horrendous hour and a half. Ā Soaked but safe.

Basic Ecotourism Training Certified!
Basic Environment and Tourism CourseĀ Certified!

And I’d definitely go see San Jose, Occidental Mindoro again, perhaps alone or in a smaller group. Bluewater Consultancy brought me to this trip so I can observe and learn about what they do — Ā I’ll write about this more soon. I even got a certificate for it.