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Beneath Your Beautiful: Diving Into Bicol’s Marine Ills

Matukad Island, Caramoan Peninsula
Matukad Island, Caramoan Peninsula

It is easy to fall in love with the region of Bicol. Blessed with picturesque islands, the bluest waters, and fiery volcanoes that attract more than repel, you get smitten. Its sordid past does not seep into the haze of perfect beaches, great food, warm and friendly people, and the juvenile mantas you just saw at Manta Bowl. Until it does.

Rapu Rapu Island
Rapu Rapu Island is on the eastern side of Bicol, where the Albay Gulf lies. It was a picture of perfection before 2005, when Australian firm Lafayette Philippines, Inc. was granted an Environmental Compliance Certificate by the Department of Environment and Natural Resources (DENR) to extract zinc, copper, silver and gold from the island.

Rapu Rapu was naturally wealthy. It counted lush sea grass beds and mangrove forests as some of its riches, nurturing both man and fish. Its fishermen harvested from the ocean, getting more than enough to feed their families and sell in the public markets. They shared the abundance with dolphins, whale sharks, sea turtles and other sea mammals that pass through the gulf during their migration.

But mining promised tangible richness. It carried the “progress” banner, with the DENR and the municipality’s officials cheering on the side. So despite protests, Lafayette through its Rapu-Rapu Polymetallic Project (RRPP) got the go-ahead to mine.

Within a year of mining in Rapu Rapu, two major fishkills had been documented, one in October 2005 and the other in July 2006. Residents claimed there were more. This led to the establishment of the Rapu Rapu Fact-finding Commission, which was tasked to investigate the October fish kill. Experts were brought in and majority of these scientists and doctors attested to the claims that Lafayette was negligent in monitoring its mining activities and in minimizing their environmental impact.

But then again, it’s money and “progress.” The DENR ignored the Commission’s findings, and the RRPP stayed. Negligence and the disregard for nature were norm. It got so bad that the government had to provide a Php 10 million emergency assistance for fisherfolks who now had zero catch. Their once abundant waters were now the subject of health and ecological studies to determine the levels of heavy metal contamination and long-term impact on its ecosystems.

By 2012, Rapu Rapu Island had turned from paradise into a wasteland. Creeks close to the mine site had red, yellow, brown and orange waters. Fish catch was now down to zero. Fish kills were regular occurrences, and became more pronounced when rare fish fell victim, such as the two sperm whales killed during the mining operation. As for “progress,” the island remained a third class municipality – the majority were still poor. The only infrastructure developments were a footbridge, a 1.8 km dirt road, and a street in the town center.

From the get-go, Rapu Rapu Island wasn’t an ideal mining site. It had an island topography. The site was too close to the sea. It was in the typhoon path, with no dry season and an intense wet season from November to January. Add to that, it had an abundance of iron sulfide rocks, which generated sulfuric acid.

What would make anyone allow mining in this area can only be assumed. What’s true is that it has gravely affected the natural habitats in and around Rapu Rapu Island.

RRPP is now under MSC of Malaysia, and LG and Kores of South Korea. While mining in Rapu Rapu should have stopped in 2013, the firm continues to explore for new mine sites.

What’s at stake goes beyond Albay Gulf. Water flows. Destructive mindsets seep into reality.

Treasures Underneath

Manta Bowl, Ticao Island, Masbate
Manta at Manta Bowl, Ticao Island, Masbate

Bicol waters are hectares of some of the richest parts of the ocean. Lamon Bay, Ragay Gulf, Ticao Pass, Burias Pass, Samar Sea, San Bernardino Straits, Lagonoy Gulf and the Maqueda Channel surround the region. Testament to the abundance is the presence of the very rare megamouth shark (Megachasma pelagios), which was found along Burias Pass.

Fishing is one of the top industries in the region, next to agriculture. It has also seen some developments in marine tourism. Notable here are the whale shark tourism in Donsol, Sorsogon, and the manta ray diving tourism in Ticao Island, Masbate.

Donsol’s case is impressive. Since the ecotour’s inception in 1999, it has become a key contributor to the municipality’s income. It made $700,000 in 2005. Monthly wages of families involved increased by $50, a considerable progress given the $5 a day minimum wage.

This only shows the possibilities that tourism presents. The condition is the sustainability of practices, both within and outside the industry.

Social and Economic
C360_2015-03-25-09-30-05-025This may be where problem lies. While the Rapu Rapu case was driven by big business, there are people within the region who permitted the environmental siege. And there are those who will continue to choose to place a price tag on the environment for its perceived current value – certainly not its value to future generations..

Such mindset has led to some of Bicol’s marine ills, such as overfishing, unsustainable fishing practices and poaching.

To this day, even with its municipal economy buoyed by ecotourism, Bulusan in Sorsogon reports at least 40 kilos of sea turtle (pawikan) meat in its public market weekly. The manta rays of Ticao Pass are still hunted for its meat and by-products. And the laws that should protect these creatures lack teeth.

According to Greenpeace Southeast Asia, while Ticao Pass and Burias Pass are some of the richest fishing grounds in the country, they are also some of the most problematic when it comes to unsustainable fishing practices and poaching.

This fact is not lost on DENR Regional Director for Bicol Gilbert Gonzales: “We appeal for help from the public in our campaign in the preservation not only of pawikan but also all of the endangered species whose presence in the seawaters around Bicol is considered a gift of nature that others in the world do not have.”

And these are great words – a leveling up compared to past support of destructive mining in Rapu Rapu. A call for preservation will be more rewarding to future generations, certainly much more than mining.

But words are just words. There are still the social and the economic of it all. Without ample education on sustainable practices and alternative livelihoods, people cannot see beyond the now – when they have to eat and provide for their families. Without protecting local fisheries from the encroachment of commercial outfits, fisherfolks will seek out the surest way to harvest from the ocean, regardless of sustainability. Without the trickling down of tourism profits, people will opt to just see a pawikan on their dinner tables than in the sea.

References:
According to Green Peace: Overfishing is killing Bicol’s marine wealth
http://balita.ph/2015/03/17/denr-rouses-bicolanos-to-marine-life-conservation/

Mining in Rapu Rapu: A Countdown to Disaster
http://www.greenpeace.org/international/Global/international/planet-2/report/2007/8/mining-in-rapu-rapu-a-countdo.pdf

Save Rapu Rapu
http://saverapurapu.blogspot.com/

From paradise to wasteland: Environmental destruction, rights violations abound in Bicol’s mining industry
http://www.piplinks.org/paradise-wasteland%3A-environmental-destruction,-rights-violations-abound-bicol%E2%80%99s-mining-industry

Donsol Whale Shark Research and Ecotourism Sustainability Program
http://wwf.panda.org/who_we_are/wwf_offices/philippines/index.cfm?uProjectID=PH0965

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Bagong Salta Sa Bicol

I can’t believe I took so long to travel to Bicol. The trip I made a week before Holy Week was a first for me. There had been plans but all fell through. The province was just never on my radar.

This changed when I saw this manta rescue clip about a year ago.

It was at Manta Bowl, which was near Ticao Island, Masbate. You see, I didn’t know that and wouldn’t have looked had it not been for the manta. I’ve been diving for a decade and haven’t seen one. The place made it on my list.

My Manta Fascination
Yes, I love big fish. There are those who prefer macro dives and critters. Me, I prefer to visit huge ones.

I suppose it’s just a matter of access. My closest dive site is Anilao, Batangas and the place is teeming with curious small fish. I’d be lucky to see a turtle. And, when I want to see a swirling school of jacks, I just head to Twin Rocks (Anilao).

So, it was only a matter of time that I seek out a place with mantas. That got me on a bus to Bicol.

Bicol By Bus
To me, Bicol by bus was the only way to go. I don’t see the point of hanging around the airport, sitting and waiting for a delayed flight when you can sit on a bus, enjoying the view or sleeping.

A piece of advice: when it’s a week before Holy Week, book your bus.

Naga City Non-Aircon Bus
Naga City-bound non-aircon bus

I left on a Monday – no booking, no ticket, and no seat. I wanted a place in one of those buses that offered LazyBoy seats. Nah. My trip to Naga, en route to Caramoan (1st stop), was on a crowded non-aircon bus – the last available trip that night.

For the whole night, I was sandwiched between a petite girl who had no qualms about using me as a pillow and a hairy guy wearing shorts. I liked the guy in shorts. He’s an OFW who loved to travel and had a lot of stories.

I made up for this mistake on the way back to Manila from Legazpi City. I booked my LazyBoy first (Php1,100, one-way); then had lunch and got a massage. I even had enough time to meet up with the co-managers of Ticao Island Resort, Rico and Jessica. Rico is a legend, of sorts. He made Manta Bowl into Bicol’s foremost dive destination.

Wild Ride at the Manta Bowl
Manta Bowl is a wild ride — that’s the most I can say about it as a dive site. It is by no means “pretty,” unlike the coral reefs of Anilao. It is not teeming with fish, at least not while I was there. But, when you want a thrilling drift dive — where you surrender all control to the current — this is the place to go. And of course, there are the mantas.

Manta at Manta Bowl, Ticao Island, Masbate
Manta at Manta Bowl, Ticao Island, Masbate

How much of a ride was it? Imagine riding a motorcycle on a freeway with no cars on it. Just you and the wind. It’s like that, only underwater.

Manta Bowl was established as a dive site in 2002 by Rico, Jessica and friends. Before that, it was known only to fishermen as a place frequented by mantas.

Since then, it’s been visited by avid divers, mostly foreign, and a few manta experts. It’s a cleaning station most active from May to October.

My encounter with mantas was on my last day of diving. I felt lucky and blessed.

Yummy Spicy Food
From Ticao Island, I headed to Legazpi City, my take-off point back to Manila. Of course, I made sure I had time to eat while there.

My favorites are the sili ice cream and tinapa rice at 1st Colonial Grill, and the Bicol Express Pasta at Small Talk Cafe.

And I still have the classics — Pinangat, Bicol Express and Laing — to sample. The mind is willing but the tummy complains. I just have to go back!

Stunning Beauty
I left Bicol with such awe of how beautiful it is. My boat trip around the Caramoan islands was particularly memorable. It was one of those places where I can just sit and stare out into the sea. My heart fills up with all that’s raw and real and beautiful — and taken for granted. Ay, but that’s another blog coming your way.

For now, I’ll remember the good stuff. A big big thank you to everyone who made this possible: Allan and Rose of Al Del Rio homestay resort, as well as Rico, Jessica and the staff of Ticao Island Resort. Thank you Stephen, my British dive buddy, who forfeited a couple of his dives so we can go back to Manta Bowl for another day’s worth of dives. Salamat Abel, DM at Ticao Island, for ensuring our safety.  And to the elderly passengers of my Sorsogon to Bulan jeep, thank you for getting together and making sure I get off at the right stop! 🙂