Roda Novenario – Page 4 – Travel Dive Connect

Posted on February 18, 2015March 9, 2015 by Roda Novenario

Danjugan Island: Paradise Endangered

Danjugan Island is an island off Negros Occidental that had been built up in my mind as paradise. Limestone cliffs, lush forests, pristine lagoons, birds, corals, fish, and hardly anyone around – I wanted to be there.

The first time I saw a glimpse of Danjugan was online. A friend of a friend tagged a friend; you know how things go on Facebook. It was a video of baby black tip sharks swimming in one of the lagoons. The snorkeler with a camera was right there with them and got so close. I was fascinated and wanted to try it.

The Long Road to Danjugan
I planned my recent Visayas trip around Danjugan Island. There were several stops but the idea was to station myself somewhere close.

Danjugan is at least 4 hours away from the nearest airport, Bacolod City. It is around 7 hours away from Dumaguete City. So, my best option was to stay for a couple of nights in Sipalay City. A bus to the jump-off point in Barangay Bulata in Hinobaan, Negros Occidental from Sipalay only takes an hour. A 10-minute boat ride after and you’re on the island.

This way, I can explore Danjugan’s 43 hectares longer. Island management offers two options: 1. day trip for around Php 1,700 and 2. an overnight stay for Php 2,700. Overnight fees are inclusive of 3 full meals and snacks, guide services and accommodations.

My stay in Sipalay is also an opportunity to dive Danjugan. There is no functional dive facility on the island. However, there are 2 accredited dive centers that can bring guests to the island’s Marine Protected Areas (MPAs). One of which is Easy Diving Resort of Punta Ballo, Sipalay. They don’t schedule dive trips ahead so I was really lucky to join a Danjugan dive the day after I checked in.

Everything went as planned and according to schedule. I was able to do some dives around the island, as well as in Punta Ballo. I got to Danjugan for my overnight stay early the next day. And by nightfall, I had seen, swam and kayaked all over.

Paradise Island
Danjugan Island is a dream island. It is paradise. I remember being awake at 5 in the morning and standing along the strip of rocks where boats docked. I was at the center of it all. The sea was in front of me; Moray Lagoon, behind. Birds chirped and played on trees that lined the cliffs on my left. I waited for the staff to wake up. Above their rooms were tall coconut trees, where giant bats flew to. And right there, I felt immense gratefulness.

Sunrise at Danjugan Island.

I saw most of Danjugan the day before with Tatay Ruben, the island’s 70+ year-old Bantay Dagat rep. We walked from Moray Lagoon, where the learning center was, through the forest and onto Turtle Beach. This strip of blue, white and green was separated from Typhoon Beach by a cliff. A man was working there when we came; he was fixing the bridge between the two beaches.

They had camp facilities at Typhoon Beach. This was where I did my snorkeling.

Snorkeling at Typhoon Beach.

It was also our take-off point to get to North Lagoon by kayak. North Lagoon was where baby sharks usually played when in season. There were no sharks when I went.

After breakfast the next day, Tatay Ruben and I walked to the Watch Tower. We again took to the forest, passing through the 4^th and 5^th lagoons this time. At the tower, I was treated to a 360 degrees view of paradise.

View from the Watch Tower.

Paradise Gained
It took a lot of work to get all this together. Aside from the learning center and cabanas at Moray Lagoon, there are a couple of single-floor concrete structures at Typhoon Beach. Marked paths, bolstered with bamboo strips and rocks, snake through the island. It feels safe to explore, even at night.

The rare Tabon Bird (Philippine Scrubfowl), safely exploring the island.

The man-made structures blend in with nature. For instance, the open-air cabana where I stayed the night uses a limestone cliff as foundation and wall. Human presence doesn’t feel intrusive. It even feels like life around the island revolves around its other inhabitants. I love this about Danjugan.

I also love the story of how the island came to be. It used to be owned by a businessman who harvested its limestone rocks to use in Negros Occidental’s coal plants. A part of the beach was already being leased to a group of divers who saw the destructive practices ruin the very reason they leased space in the first place. Aside from mining, people took to illegal fishing practices and poaching endangered species. The divers were so moved that they parted seas – so to speak – to look for funds so they can purchase the island.

This gave way to the non-government organization Philippine Reef and Rainforest Conservation Foundation, Inc. (PRRCFI), the current owner and manager of Danjugan Island. To this day, despite temptations and an offer to become the next Boracay, they stay true to marine conservation and keeping Danjugan as it should be.

Paradise Endangered
Unfortunately, this has not stopped the frailty of humanity from rearing its ugly head.

Tatay Ruben, introducing me to the island.

On the way to the island to dive with Easy Diving, I saw fishermen catching fish at the Twin Peaks dive site, a no-take zone that was hidden behind tall cliffs. I told Tatay Ruben about it and his mood changed. He drifted between defensive and frustrated. Maybe I was mistaken about the distance, he suggested. I wasn’t. I dropped the subject, knowing how bad he already felt about the community’s attitudes toward conservation. This was one of our first topics of conversation.

Tatay Ruben was quite open about his struggles as Bantay Dagat. A big part of this concerned the community that was home to Danjugan Island. According to Tatay Ruben, the people of Barangay Bulata were not of the same mindset as him. While he thought of his children and grandchildren, the community was more concerned with the now. The island was teeming with fish – this was opportunity for a bigger catch.

Tatay Ruben had routinely captured perpetrators for decades; and they routinely skirted the law and Danjugan’s MPA mandates.

He spoke about the disinterest and neglect that seemed to prevail among majority of the community members. He ranted about how they insisted on today’s harvest, disregarding future harvests for their children. He ached at how they seemed to be taking the sea for granted, with their irrigation and production wastes emptying out into the ocean.

I saw this for myself. It was low tide going to and back from Danjugan, and I had to wade through Barangay Bulata’s side of the ocean for about 5 minutes. It felt dirty. I remained polite and hid as I doused my legs in alcohol. I had blisters on my feet and was afraid of infection. The state of the water, a few meters away from paradise, was that bad.

Hope
There is hope. PRRCFI regularly conducts the Danjugan Island Environmental Education Program (DEEP) for teachers and children of Hinobaan, Cauayan and Sipalay. This is a fully-sponsored program that introduces them to the wonders of the ocean and marine conservation.

I don’t see a better way than this. Education changes attitudes. Realities expand beyond the now. People begin to care enough to think of alternatives. There is hope.

Posted on January 22, 2015January 22, 2015 by Roda Novenario

Arigatou Gozaimasu, Daman!

There are many reasons to visit Siquijor: diving, its coastal and mountain attractions, and maybe to scare yourself a bit with its myths and folktales. Surely, I had mine. American friends raved about the province when they went more than five years ago. I wanted to see for myself, experience its laid-back beaches, and dive in Visayan waters. Little did I know, I would also end up finding family.

In planning the trip, I ran into Daman Harada. An unknown in the country’s capital and perhaps elsewhere other than Siquijor, he has taken the province’s school system under his wings and has done more for its children than any politician I could think of. And he’s not even of Siquijor, just its adopted son – someone who has chosen to serve the place he now calls home.

The Villa Marmarine Family

Daman’s Siquijor home is Villa Marmarine, a small family-owned resort with around five well-appointed guest cabins. It employs a few key staff, people I saw throughout the day, like co-managers Flor and Max who I was in touch with before actually getting to the province.

Flor acts as resort manager and coordinates their day-to-day. Max does similarly but concentrates on the affairs of their new dive center. He was one of the dive master who accompanied me on three dives. He played rescue diver to Bismark, a dive master and Dumaguete local. A friendly support crew mills in the background, cooking wonderful meals, among other tasks.

With Bismarck, the Dive Master — With Bismark, the Dive Master

At night, a different set of support staff shows up to arrange dinner tables, keep the candles lit and serve meals. They are younger and work in traditional Japanese wear. I would later find out that they are some of Daman’s scholars, his angels.

Home in Siquijor

Villa Marmarine, Siquijor, Philippines — Breakfast view at Villa Marmarine, Siquijor

You feel good when you’re at Villa Marmarine. Regardless of your temperament, where you are in your life and what you come to Siquijor for, it gets to you. You start with a smile, greet your hosts and give a polite bow. Breakfast is eaten as you look out into the ocean; you know it’s going to be a great day.

Daman, and his wife and son are hands-on owners/employers who mingle with their guests whenever they can. They are always present during mealtimes, like a family with an unending throng of visitors to entertain. There are occasional “events” you can join, like board game night. While I was there, I joined an introductory game of Gateball, which looks like cricket and plays like holen (at least to me, the lone Filipino guest/player).

Gateball, Siquijor — Playing Gateball with Chinese guests. The lady hitting the ball was a great newbie player!

I always look forward to seeing the family. There’s a good vibe about them – positive, genuine. And you know this is imbibed by the people around, the staff and guests. You are never alone when you stay at Villa Marmarine; you feel at home.

Siquijor’s Angels

This is pretty much what it feels like when getting to know Daman and his project, Siquijors Angels. You sense that it is a family affair, one that’s constantly expanding with new members.

Siquijor Angels is an NGO established by Daman in 2004. He and his wife had just retired and were traveling. He dreamed of continuing his vocation. He had always been a teacher – in Japan and the countries he was assigned to. He had been to Kuwait, the Netherlands and even war-torn Lebanon. He wanted to relocate to a place where he can make the most contribution. That was how he came to Siquijor.

There were 63 elementary schools in the province, most of which lacked proper irrigation and clean toilets. During break time, children took turns to fetch water from nearby wells. They relieved themselves in latrines. Daman thought that if the children were to concentrate on their studies and really learn, they shouldn’t have to deal with such conditions.

Daman and Siquijor school children. (Photo by Siquijors Angels and Daman Harada)

So, he set about raising funds and facilitating the rehabilitation of these schools. He put aside some of his savings and a portion of Villa Marmarine’s revenue to get things started. He reached out to the Japanese communities in the country and in Japan. In between, he engaged with the children of Siquijor. He taught them Origami, and Japanese greetings, phrases and songs. He played dodgeball and volleyball with them.

Daman wasn’t so lucky the first time around. He made the rounds of charitable institutions and came back with hardly anything. This stalled his project so he sought help.

Two things came to his life that made everything better: 1. his membership with the Rotary Club of Siquijor in 2009; and 2. the gayuma given to him by a local shaman. It was surprising that someone from Japan, with all the country’s modernity and science, could believe in an amulet. True or not, it brought good fortune to the children of the province. Siquijors Angels finally took flight.

Spreading Their Wings

Siquijor, Philippines — New bathrooms at their school. (Photo by Siquijors Angels and Daman Harada.)

By 2014, Siquijors Angels has accomplished a lot. The NGO has finished the rehabilitation of the province’s elementary schools. It is now actively soliciting learning aids, such as used computers, microscopes and musical instruments.

The number of angels has increased too. Aside from the school kids, Daman has taken on 15 scholars. Some are working students who help around the resort after school hours. Others have qualified to study in Cebu colleges and Japan. Max was actually one of them. He chose to come back from Japan to work at the resort.

Arigatou Gozaimasu

All this might just be at the surface. A few days with the family and the Villa Marmarine crew cannot capture their struggles and motivations. I sometimes wonder what the takeaway is for Daman and his family. He has taken on a lot of responsibilities and with nothing to his name. No government title nor living wage. No fawning profile in big media outfits. Just the fulfillment of his selfless dream and, in doing so, allowing others to follow their own. For that, arigatou gozaimasu!

*Want to help? Stay at Villa Marmarine when you’re in Siquijor. A portion of their revenue goes to the NGO. You can also pass by and donate via their donation box.

Posted on January 7, 2015January 7, 2015 by Roda Novenario

A Big Splash and A Big Smile to Welcome 2015

Salgdoong Beach, Siquijor, Philippines — Salagdoong Beach in Siquijor, where you take the leap.

Happy New Year 🙂 Starting it with some musings about my last trip….

I am shifting in my seat right now as I write this. My butt still hurts from jumping into the sea off a 20-foot cliff. According to the forums, this will be my situation for at least half of next year. A cliff diving newbie error that very few regret; so far, I don’t.

My 10-day trip – Siquijor via Dumaguete, Punta Ballo in Sipalay, Danjugan Island, Bacolod City and Cebu City– was partly to celebrate my 40^th birthday and partly to make up for months without TDC action. Emphasis on being 40 to explain my achy arse. You know how people get when they reach an age marker.

The whole trip was a challenge, as it was. With five stops, I was dependent on a bulilyaso-proof plan and transport companies sticking to their schedules. But you know, been there, done that. I’ve had trips like this before. I however have never jumped off a cliff.

Of course, I did not seek to make the jump a trip highlight. I had a lot to accomplish during my 10 days; it was just a side trip.

Cezar, my land tour guide in Siquijor, has lots of stories for the curious traveler.

But, I don’t know, it was one of those things that you just have to do. When Cezar, a local guide and tricycle driver, told me about it, I knew I wouldn’t leave Siquijor without seeing if I can make the leap. Jumping into water was a primal fear for me. I figure, doing this was like jumping into my 40s with a big splash. I know, I know… keso!

Let me tell you though, when I looked down from the edge, I felt all blood leave my gut. I was literally gutless. Thank goodness for the American couple, school teachers on vacation, who talked me into it. The guy was encouraging all through my internal struggle. The woman was my cliff diving buddy, who struggled with me and jumped ahead.

When I saw her do it despite how we felt and she came sputtering out of the water with a big smile on her face, I just gotta do the same.

And that butt ache of a jump was somehow poetic. Aching at my first stop, I still went forward with a big smile on my face. So far, this was the best trip of my life.

Reality
What I loved most about this trip was that it didn’t feel like an escape. I brought along with me much of my Manila-self: my work, some pet peeves and the occasional grumpiness that came with age.

There were little frustrations, anyway. I had deadlines within the trip but I was able to log in enough time to keep my clients happy; Wi-Fi was surprisingly reliable in all the stops. I had the worst blisters on my feet. The fast boat between Siquijor and Dumaguete was a health hazard. (They seriously needed to sound-proof the engine room. With my ear plugs and all, I was still precariously dangling my torso away from the boat just to lessen the noise!) And Siquijor to Sipalay involved a boat ride and three bus switches, which amounted to around 8 hours on my painful butt, the day after my big splash.

But that’s not really much. It was like a typical week in bustling Manila but with amazing scenery.

It was during these episodes when I realized that I can actually make this my life. I would love it if I can live this for more than 10 days a month. A vacation would be a weekend or two with family and friends. Now, I just have to figure out how I can bring Body Attack to the provinces… hmmm.

Opposites
The trip was also a study of opposites. The 4-star resort feel of Punta Ballo and Eazy Diving Resort vis-a-vis Siquijor and Villa Marmarine’s cozy homey welcome. The pristine waters of Danjugan Island against the putrid shores of Barangay Bulata, the island’s jump-off point, just a 10-minute banca ride away. Commercial tourism operations compared to eco tourism and marine sanctuaries.

Danjugan Island entry beach, near Moray Lagoon

I came back from the trip with so much to write about. I am actually still trying to wrap my head around all that I saw and experienced.

A stand-out was the hospitality and generosity of Daman Harada and his Villa Marmarine team in Siquijor. They advertised “Japanese hospitality, Filipino service;” they weren’t kidding. I have never had reception so authentic and giving.

Because of Typhoon Hagupit, I had to move my reservations with them by a week. To accommodate my request, they upgraded me to a bigger cabin, equipped with hot/cold shower, cable TV, a mini bar, a really nice hardwood work desk, free Wi-Fi and a patio that looked out into the ocean – at the same discounted rate. My three nights here costed the same as one night in Sipalay.

I was the only diver but they had 2 dive masters guiding me, along with 3 boatmen, on a boat big enough for 10 divers – at my discounted rate. Eazy Diving in Sipalay had a dive master for three divers, a typical ratio in the industry.

Daman, patiently teaching us Gateball. I was a lousy player :P — Daman, patiently teaching us Gateball. I was a lousy player 😛

I wanted the sea urchin pasta and sashimi for dinner. They wouldn’t let me have these unless they got fresh supplies from the market. They actually went to the market to check before OK-ing my dinner request. I had free laundry service. And, Daman conducted an introductory game of Gateball for me and 9 other volunteer guests.

I’d be first to understand the need for tourist establishments to make some money off their guests. This felt like the opposite. It was like they were in business to provide service and facilitate a cultural exchange, of sorts. I am still moved by my stay at Villa Marmarine; and will definitely be back.

Magic
And then there was the magic of Danjugan Island. This was one of those places I wished was nearer my home so I can get to know it more. Here, I found magic to be real.

As a mountaineer and beach bum, I’d had a handful of ethereal experiences in locations I visit. If this was a function of the third eye, then you can say that mine was slightly open in an involuntary squint. I’d felt elemental presence and activity; I just hadn’t seen them. So, my logical self ignored, adding these experiences to my baul of bonfire stories.

This time though, I couldn’t do the same. The experience was too real. It felt woven into my whole amazing Danjugan stay.

What happened? For the sake of not being deemed too delusional, let’s just say that I had a couple of unseen 3AM visitors on my one night in Danjugan. (Details? PM me.) It drove me out of my cabana, where I stayed alone, very early in the morning. I wasn’t afraid. They did not give off bad vibes. I just didn’t understand at that time. My defensive logical self would not let me but I was sure about what I felt.

a mangrove-dwelling moray eel of Moray Lagoon, Danjugan Island — A mangrove-dwelling moray eel of Moray Lagoon, Danjugan Island

Being out so early was a good thing. I sat in the open area near Moray Lagoon – much like a lady sekyu – and waited for dawn. It was a cold and windy morning but I did not mind. As the sun crept in at around 5:30, I couldn’t resist walking toward the center of the action, where I saw giant bats fly into trees near me, birds sang and played uphill on trees toward my left, moral eels splashed for meals, and the sun rose east. It was a slow waking up for Danjugan Island. Magical.

Now
Today, I am planning my TDC year, how I’ll get funds for it and where I’ll go. Tubbataha is an ideal but that’s like X3 of what I spent on this trip; and to think this took me 3 months to save up for. I am thinking of trying to book a Verde Island dive again. This was supposed to be last year’s first dive trip had it not been for bad weather. I also want to soak in cool Baguio weather for a few days, and perhaps follow up on 182 trees and the city’s seeming decline.

These are all plans, of course. What’s sure is that I’ll be adding a guide component in TDC, and I’ll be giving up Yapak. Having Yapak is nice if there were other people who could help update it. Wala eh — well, except for the amazing Ms. Jl of Visual Spate, who did the logo and the new look I haven’t gone live with. TDC makes me happy so I’m giving it my TLC this 2015 😀

Posted on December 11, 2014December 11, 2014 by Roda Novenario

Ready… Giddy… Go!

C360_2014-12-11-05-17-22-951
After Ruby and before an LPA becomes a typhoon (hopefully not) that will threaten Visayas and Mindanao, I will be on a plane for Siquijor, via Dumaguete. This is the first stop of this month’s dive and foodie trip. I am so excited! It’s been a while.

First stop is Siquijor for some dives and to talk with my host, Daman Harada. He is an ex school teacher from Japan who fell in love with the island. He reached out to the public schools here and found their infrastructure, particularly the lack of proper restrooms and water, deplorable. He put up an NGO called the Siquijor Angels to fund irrigation and construction for public schools in the province.

Next is Punta Ballo in Sipalay City. Again, this is for some dives, and also to check out the artificial reef project of Easy Diving/Christian Reinwald, my host for this leg.

And then I’ll be at Danjugan Island, a conservation pioneer and MPA under the Philippine Reef and Rainforest Project . Here, I hope to swim with some black tips and visit a shallow sheltered octopus *fingers crossed … apart from talking to the island manager, of course.

Then, I will try some cansi and original Bacolod inasal before heading to Cebu City for lunch with the people behind the struggling Cebu Mariculture Demonstration Center.

Long trip. And I am a stranger to most of the stops. Wish me luck 🙂

Posted on October 2, 2014October 2, 2014 by Roda Novenario

Personal Blog: Stop/Start

It took a while to get the last post out. It’s shorter than usual but that’s got my blood and sweat in it. I take writing personally. It’s the one thing of me that I want intact and uncompromised.

Not saying I’m some godsend here… but I do try my best to come out with something “above readable.” (Yes, I can be snooty that way, sorry 🙂 ) Anyone can claim to write these days. Me, post-college with an Economics degree from the best university in the country, I simmered in low pay just so I can work as a writer. I can’t think of downgrading now. (Sorry, again, feelingera ang peg!)

I’ve actually been discouraged lately. A friend called all this — this thematic (naks!) body of work that I am finally working on — as irrelevant. And I understand where he’s coming from. I am aware that I am not making news here. I’m just… well, writing. It’s one of the harshest things I’ve been told. I still can’t shake it off.

That. The rain. And here I am.

There are plans, old and new. I am still in touch with my friend from Lubang Island. That’s first in line. Then, I want to check out the Cebu Mariculture Demonstration Center in Medellin. They found me here. Sidetrip: Aloguinsan, Cebu.

The good thing about this stop/start is that I’ve got funds to get all this done without worrying as much.

Author: Roda Novenario

Danjugan Island: Paradise Endangered

Arigatou Gozaimasu, Daman!

A Big Splash and A Big Smile to Welcome 2015

Ready… Giddy… Go!

Personal Blog: Stop/Start

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